To have such faith

to have such faith, a marabout who guides  you

in the path of Islam, a man so important that

he is always in your pocket, his image  hangs on the wall

of the museum we visited together.

you know what to do in life because he has helped 

you interpret the Quran.

I am envious of such faith, such certitude as I

muddle through life, hoping only to do more good 

than harm.  

Three Generations

We were four generations until November of last year.

Now three, we easily traverse the boardwalk

swinging the littlest one between us,

the grandmother and mother.

The fourth generation would have watched

from a distance, no longer able to move on her own.

She is still with us, her shadow moves

 next to mine, and mine next to my daughter,

Mira will walk amidst all of our shadows, 

and in her own sunshine, innocent, free

in each moment

Where am I going?

I was there, then.

Swinging a two year old girl in my arms

she's heavy and growing.

We are frozen in that moment

that the camera, captured in that instant.

I'm here, now.

Sitting at a tall countertop in a stranger's home

They will become friends as I wipe down the counters

and sweep accumulated dust and pine needles off the floor.

I was there, once, two small children, dust on the floor,

too exhausted to care.

I'm here, now, the tap of keys, waiting for

the two-year old girl to arrive with her mother.

I don't know what is next.

Where are we going, Senegal?

Where are we going, beloved Senegal

Somewhere unknown, we gaze sideways

our mask only partially covering our nose and mouth.

we do not follow rules, we are free

we have never been slaves here.

where are we going, beloved Senegal,

the scenery races by, we are looking behind

instead of ahead, then switching seats,

racing forward into the future.

our eyes straight ahead.

Winning le Coupe d'Afrique!

I had never seen so many people- such celebration and joy!!  For the first time ever, Senegal won the Cup! I found myself in the crowd, in the cabin of a truck, musicians behind me on the flat of the truck.  Djiby Seye revving the crowd:  'SENEGAL!!! SENEGAL"  I'm watching the whole thing. dancing, screaming, thousands of people who have walked in from neighborhoods miles away.  We are not moving within a parking lot of a highway.  It's historic - something I am so happy that I was able to be here.  

A day in Dangane, Senegal

 

My best friend here in Senegal, Saliou.  I drag him away from work for a vacation in Delta Saloum, where we spent time on the Saloum River, watching pelicans, admiring the work of environmentalists who have replanted areas of mangroves that had been decimated by excessive harvesting and climate change.  Saliou  is a family friend,  a long time friend of my half brother, Pierre-Andre, who spent a semester in Dakar many years ago.  

This small village, Mar-Lodj, had both a large mosque and this beautiful Catholic church, complete with Swiss stained glass windows.  The Church and Mosque are both filled with people who come in from surrounding regions.  This "village" is actually more populated than it seems, with some 2500 people. They are well organized, with fairly agressive marketing to tourists.  If you approach to look, there is no getting away from buying, after extensive bargaining.

The baobob tree is mostly water so the wood cannot be used for anything.  They can also reach massive height and breadth.

I bought this from him.  First price:  20.000 cfa. Ridiculous.  Call over Saliou.  5.000 cfa.  Artist:  10.000 cfa.  I settled on 7.000 cfa knowing I was still overpaying.  He didn't have change, I paid 8.000 cfa.  Too much, but the reality is that this man supports his family, he is one of 8 children, only he works.  The situation in Senegal (Africa) is pretty horrendous.  At the next stop, a Senegalese woman took my hand to go to one of the booths, and I pulled back and said I had already bought plenty for the moment.  I knew she was disappointed, but it does get to be quite exhausting.  We tourists are their economic engine, for better or worse.  The pirogue trip was 30.000 cfa (using a . instead of , )( as they do, so 30.000 cfa means 30,000 cfa).  This man had done studies in electro-mechanical engineering...here he is.  The tour guide to go into the village had his Bachelor's Degree and there he is, guiding tourists...

The OWEN Project: Ramata Sarr

 

Our first recipient, Ramata Sarr, mother of two, will succeed in her business, I am sure.  Very smart,  work in banking, organized, charming, clearly hard working, answering all the hard questions with honesty, including caveats for potential stumbling blocks along the way. 

I also realize, now having reviewed about 30 applications, that women like Ramata interest me.  Women in rural areas are supported by organizations like Kiva or Vision Fund.  Women who sell fabrics, dishes, what-have-you from their living rooms also don't interest me.  

From a larger perspective,  an American or European has to struggle with the fact that it is the governments who fail their people, and as charitable organizations/individuals, white people (largely) come in to help them.  I focus on helping women start businesses, not provide food aid (except during the pandemic, I did help, knowing the situation was very dire).  Senegal was a French colony, and the structure of the constitution, schools, roads were built by the French.  The Senegalese government has now built a national highway (beautiful) and has the largest solar installation in West Africa.  The people have to play a role as well, which would include driving with some semblance of order, arriving on time..anywhere.  The level of chaos is crazy.