Smiling buddhas on an Island near Hiroshima

 

A second day in Hiroshima, 

a short boat ride to a nearby island where

Hundreds of red-capped Buddhas smiled at us.

the jostling crowds in

Nearby shops and restaurants attest to the 

Urgency of life, regardless of past losses,

Of ice cream cones and sushi, glittering souvenirs,

I can’t help but smile at the three dads sitting together,

Each sporting a sleepy baby in a Snugli, 

Laughing together, young fathers having enjoyed 

Their day in the sunshine. Returning to

downtown Hiroshima, the vibe is business, the cityscape 

Cement and glass skyscrapers, the people rushing by,

On their way to the future

That awaits us all. 

Hiroshima

We, the hordes of visitors in the Museum at Hiroshima. 

know that the faces gazing back at us from the screen, 

were burned beyond recognition

In that terrible moment.  

We see the gnarled remains of a tricycle, the helmet which still held the skull of

A child who seconds before was perhaps laughing with joy,

We see the shadow on the cement stoop where a body had been vaporized,

The shredded clothing that hung from oozing bodies.

Huge panoramas of Hiroshima, a city buzzing with life, before

This terrible moment,

And after, a flat, grey landscape of destruction

Punctuated by the skeletal remains of the Prefecture, a magnificent dome,

Still beautiful in its austerity, its insistence on our attention. 

The gentle patter of the raindrops on our raised umbrellas,

As if tears from heaven were joining the ones 

Streaming down our cheeks. 

 

おはようございます - Good morning!

 Yes, I was worried alright.

The "Learning Japanese the Easy Way" book did not ease my fears.

The introductory language videos start with introducing the three sets of characters;

Some 300+ Chinese type symbols and two other sets....

I was discouraged from even getting past the first 10 minutes.

But we learned that

おはようございます "good morning" with a smile did wonders, as did

美味しかった "That was delicious" after a wonderful meal!

we muddle through, with the Japanese providing English on some signs,

And its amazing how much you can converse with Google Translate

(And yes, I tell our new friends that we detest Trump),

In the rare cases where someone speaks some English, we learn

About them and their children (all in big towns or abroad, one daughter

Working for Google in Tokyo), (none of their children wanting to

Take over the family business),

Little by little we learn a word or two, a character or two,

Like "Exit" or the name of the bus so we get on the right one

(Just look for the bus that arrives at the correct time, we are advised).

The greatest thrill is when the quiet Japanese person sitting next to you

At the counter turns to you, smiles and says, or write, Where you from?"

And we go from there.

Following the blue line to arrive at Imabari, Japan

Let there be no doubt that Japan is a world-class ship building nation,

Finally recognizing that those cranes are not for unloading ships, but for building them.

Let there be no doubt that Japan is a manufacturing nation, having decided after WWII

That they will win on the economic stage, that they will create a nation that moves,

On bullet trains, buses, bikes, and walking, leaving small spaces for tiny cars

(So cute!)

Let there be no doubt that Japan can build bridges, longer than I have ever seen,

That when there is a will, there is a way, yes, to build winding paths that allow

Recreational cyclists to climb to the entrances of these bridges, 

Let there be no doubt that America has much to learn from Japan, 

Although we provided the funds after WWII to rebuild (after destroying her),

She made the wise decisions to become what she is today,

A formidable and beautiful country, an admirable people,

And the blue line?

We followed it on our bikes for three days, from island to island,

Across bridges, along peaceful coastlines, through ship building zones,

Passing shrines, and countless 7-Elevens, to arrive here

At Imabari, where we will take a bus and train to Hiroshima.

Up next!

 

A traditional Japanese Ryokan - tatami mats, robes, futons, onsen and yummy food!

I wonder if we can arrange our house like this, soft filtered light,

Slippers, neatly stacked futons and blankets to roll out at nighttime.

Hot tea and enameled tea cups beckon at the low table, the chairs 

On the ground are supportive and comfortable, elegantly designed.

Before a midday rest, we ease ourselves into the hot pools (onsen)

Punctuated with a brisk rinse with cold water and a re-immersion.  

The nervous system relaxes.

Careful to place the left side of the robe over right (we are not dead yet),

We shuffle in our house slippers down to a sumptuous dinner, almost

Too beautifully arranged to eat, yet we do, consuming all of it,

The sashimi, broiled fish, rice, and yes, the octopus, which I abhor killing,

Has already given its life...and so I savor its flesh, thanking it for its sacrifice.

Elegant in its simplicity, a delightful reminder of the ease of being close

To the ground.  

 

Bridges, boats and biking in Japan

 

The mountains rise directly from

A crystal clear sea, a small fishing boat bobs nearby,

Statuesque cranes tower on the adjacent shore.

Suspension bridges rivaling the Golden Gate connect

Small towns on opposite shores, our electric bikes 

Whisk us up from the shore, climbing ever higher to join 

The crossing traffic, then dropping us back down on 

Sinuous paths covered in cherry blossoms,

I send a prayer to the skies as I speed past a shrine, 

To honor those who are no longer with us, 

In gratitude for this beautiful day, this beautiful life. 

 

Observations - small and large

 Despite the long line to board the train, the many departing the train, the Westerners lugging large suitcases, the train will depart in 2 minutes.

How clever for the top of the toilet tank to double as a hand washing station during flushing.

The granola chunks tantalizing me in the shop were nut covered fried chicken chunks and the donut was filled with noodles.

The flooded fields abut the tended flower gardens of the immaculate homes.

The fog rests on the landscape like a soft white blanket. 

The eye’s desire vastly overestimates the stomach’s capacity.