People will ask me in passing, "So, how was the trip?" , "How was Senegal?" and I have 5 seconds to say something meaningful. What can I say that says something beyond that it was cool, it was different. I'm not even sure myself what I would say except that crazy Dakar captured my heart.
Daily life is SO different here, yet still the same in so many ways. People in the U.S. generally drive to their favorite coffee shop, open up their laptop and enjoy their latte. Here in Dakar, the dilapidated coffee carts were just setting up this morning at 6:30 am when we got off the ferry. The barrista has his little propane stove where he boils the water, pours in the powdered coffee, a lot of sugar and pours the coffee back and forth into a larger cup to mix up the sugar, pours it into a small plastic cup for the customer. I didn't quite catch the cost but it's probably about 10 cents. So, people work - but the work is manually very intensive. No time to think grand thoughts.
The laundry needs to be done. From my hotel balcony in Dakar, I was mystified how a family could so much laundry. It is all done by hand by women. It's an important business here.
I'm not sure what percentage of sales comes from purchases made on the street, but it's got to be alot. You can buy a pair of shoes, a mop, cashews, you name it, from your taxi as you sit in traffic.
Money is on everyone's mind, all the time and I am constantly being asked for money. I had expected it on the street, but not at every home that I visited. Businesses can't start because there is no credit.
Obviously, I am white and everyone else is black. I was surprised how few whites there are, anywhere I go. I was also repeatedly reminded that a white woman walking alone (especially on a first visit) was a prime target for crime. At a certain point, white people can be integrated, and my friends did note that at the end of my visit I started becoming a Senegalese, chatting with random people (under their careful watch). It would be very weird to live here, though, as a white person.
Small details for travel abroad (especially third world countries)
I liked traveling alone and being with the people. I would not travel alone, however, without having people who would be with me. Of course, speaking a common language is essential. I wish I had bothered to learn some Wolof -
What I'm glad I packed: a stopper (flat plastic thing) for stopping up the sink so that I could hand wash my clothes
an extension cord for when there are only two electrical plugs and one is 6 feet off the ground.
Water purification (both gravity and SteriPen). Both worked well. When I came back to Dakar, the water out of the sink was yellow and filtration was necessary. Sometimes I just used the SteriPen.
Small handkerchiefs
Sandals and light weight walking/running shoes
Knee length shorts with pockets
Small wallet that could fit in bra
What I didn't need:
Raincoat; insect repellant; antibiotics; diarrhea medication; so many sani-wipes; 2 dresses (1 is good, with pockets is good; orthotics from REI; duffel bag; hand lotion (I just used sunscreen all the time);
What I wish I had:
more underwear
Practical things I learned: Carry only small amounts of cash and stash IDs and cash in bra if no pockets. Same with phone.
The Senegalese bidet is a water spray next to the toilet. It is very hygienic and you don't need toilet paper. I think better than a bidet.
What I bought
Two bracelets
One beautiful Senegalese blouse
Two pairs of tailored pajamas from St.Louis
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